Ensuring visibility in network traffic

EVER FACED a problem in retrieving data after the system recovers from a crash? If a company has robust Network Management in place, there are little chances of losing data. Similarly, recklessness towards network and information that flows across a network cannot only impede the speed of the work, but also can affect the progress of a business.
In addition to this, the apathetic behaviour of a network is exasperating for the users connected to the network, but what it is that actually causes the network to become passive and torpid?
Network Traffic
What happens when one is stuck in bumper to bumper traffic while going back to home from office? The vehicles move at a snail’s pace and it takes a lot of time for the person to reach his destination. The same situation occurs along with some other glitches when there is an information/data overload on the network. The data or information that travels across network in the form of packets constitutes network traffic, which is the major reason behind unresponsive network.
Rather, it is a weakness of network monitoring that raises visibility issues, but why it is important to ensure visibility and what can be done to achieve visibility?
Steps to Ensuring Visibility
There are three ways by which greater visibility can be created: accessing network traffic; monitoring of activities; data analysis. To ensure visibility in the network traffic, it is important to have access to data or packets that are being sent and received across network. By having access to data, it is possible to identify and distinguish data that is flowing with no commotion and the data, which is causing upheavals, but what are the ways to access data and are they all risk-free and reliable?
TAP and SPAN have been found as the two main methods of accessing data, TAP being more reliable. Initially, SPAN is inexpensive, but it becomes costly when packets drop in the mid-way before reaching the monitoring tool. This situation further aggravates that problem and makes it impossible to troubleshoot. SPAN almost fails in case of amplified internal traffic. TAP, however, allows continuous visibility in the network and rate of disruptions is lowest.
Access to data just helps in seeing and keeping an eye on the type and number of data flowing through and across the network. It doesn’t help one in knowing how the bandwidth is being used and who is guzzling more of it. Nevertheless, if the data and activities are monitored, it becomes easy to find this out. Moreover, it allows one todetermine if users are using file sharing programmes and one can also detect the presence of Trojan that is clandestinely passing on the information in the background. However, selecting a most appropriate network monitoring tool is the job of network administrator. Monitoring of data leads to capturing and analysis of data, but what if analysis of all captured data is not required?
Monitoring actually helps in filtering the data. Once it is filtered, it becomes easy to analyze data that requires analysis.  The analysis helps in identifying the underlying causes behind less visibility and network issues and leads to solutions.
The communication in the form of packets travels from user to server via router and the server then responds back to the user through router. The problems creating visibility issues can be solved either through replacing servers or increasing bandwidth i.e. the speed of the network. Bandwidth seems a skimpy hitch yet it is not that is why many companies, quite frequently, are found switching to fastest and most reliable internet connections. Actually, the process of flow of packets is affected by the speed of the type of connectivity. Simply putting ISDN cannot work in a large enterprise as it engages telephone lines and its speed ranges between few Kpbs. DSL is a better option as it doesn’t employ telephone lines, but wireless connection is the most in concept these days. It allows always-on connection, but in order to have access to it, it is must to be within a network coverage area geographically.
What does visibility yield?
Achieving visibility implies achieving cost savings and return on investment. The presence of malicious software, error counts, and identification of which protocols are using greatest bandwidth are valuable information gained through network monitoring. In short, monitoring helps in uncovering problems in network and allows provision of more network resources to the users connected to the network, thus yielding savings and more return.
A business relying on network needs to have a simple yet robust network. In the present times, where every company is making efforts to protect and safeguard their systems and information, it is important to ensure enhanced visibility in the network traffic. Even a small negligence can lead to serious repercussions such as data loss, slow processing, silent transmission and leak of the information, and business failure, which no firm wants.

Tsunami foresight Normative science perspectives

 
SINCE THE day humans came to being and started thinking about new techniques to survive on earth, the only planet we know has life, we humans have been doing foresight of some sort. We try to avoid the upcoming hazards in one way or another e.g. we try to keep ourselves safe from diseases, we try to keep ourselves healthy through stockpiling the food, we hoard luxuries by calling them necessities e.g. oil, gold, silicon etc. Humans are clever beings as they are observed to be the only ones manipulating the nature. They try to come up with sophisticated technologies to gear up their joy and security needs through different tactics of invention and innovation in addition to consensus with no regards to laws of nature. Often we hear this that we do we put on clothes, why do we do what our forefathers been doing for ages, why women take care of babies at home and men working outside, why do we give charity for the ones who suffer are only because of their wrong doings….
We humans have more tendency to think about the future for securing the things which we fear about and to giving ourselves liberty from fears and restrictions. Tsunamis are one of our fears which haunt us and we think how to take care of these which are completely unpredictable. The tendency to plan for secure future is motivating us to do foresight about these natural hazards though there is common belief that it can’t be controlled by humans but God. Still being the second to God on earth efforts are on to control and foresee the things we can’t see.
Tsunamis are earthquakes which are due to the movement of the tectonic plates deep down in earth’s crust. The movement is always for a reason but how to predict that now it is going to happen. Can we really foresight the future Tsunami or earthquake thus accordingly taking actions to avoid the damage? Do we have a technology in our mind which keeps track of these movements ultimately resulting into a simulation which results in a model demonstrating the damage which may occur due to it? Or is it just for the sake of taking actions to avoid all those actions which result in Tsunamis and earthquakes? The very common person will say that we need to overcome the damage by living a simple life, keeping away from sea, always living like a traveler so that damage, if occurs, should be minimum. Some would be there who will try to make their buildings like ships so that if it ever happens then some transformation of ship like homes may occur to save from damage by going under the ground or transforming into a vessel which is submarine like.
We have strong faith persons who believe that it is because of our deeds. We do good and the result is to have good. For bad ones, troubles and issues are always ready to happen just in a moment. These believers may have assumptions but science needs to come up with a reasoning for that. Do we have a bad impact on our environment due to a bad deed which somehow impacts our earth’s crust thus making the plates to move to at least generating a potential to make them move in near or far future? Is there a linkage between the deeds and our natural hazards? Can we come up with a research project that a common type of deed resulted into a disaster which was all natural and was out of control of human beings? May we not the study the deeds or common habits of a place where these natural disasters occur? Its all meta-physics which is based on spirits. Religions do have space for this but can science come up with a proof or a linkage between the two: Tsunamis’ Science & Normative Science.

Naltar valley

Naltar valley is very close to Gilgit and Hunza. It is 40 km (25 miles) from Gilgit and can be accessible by jeeps. Naltar is a forested (pine) village recognized for its flora and fauna and terrific mountain scenery. Now a days the communication is obtainable by the efforts of Pakistan army signal corps (SCO special communication organization). There are ski lifts under the ‘Ski Federation of Pakistan’. Transportation facility is there from Gilgit to Naltar but during a specific time after that one can arrange on his own.
In the Naltar valley there is a lake known as ‘Bashkiri Lake’. It is at a distance of 32 kilometers (20 miles) from Naltar Bala. This lake gives a breathtaking and amazing look both in the summer and as well as in winter. The road from village to “Lake” is nonmetallic and narrow along with a stream throughout this road coming from the mountains. A lot of attractive scenes are there along this road. In winter it is almost impossible to reach the lake through any vehicle due to the snow (10 to 15 feet high) on the road.

Zionist Led Anti-Islam Campaigns and How Best to React

They have done it again and they will most certainly keep propagating such anti-Islamic campaigns in future. Muslims are mostly unsure on how best to react to such incidents.
From blocking YouTube and Facebook to demanding the removal of anti-Islamic content, we have tried it all and quite frankly nobody listened.

Boycott and Ban is Not a Long-Term Solution

Muslims need to use internet and technology in much the same way as everyone else and this is one thing that enemies of Islam are well aware of. There is a pattern of use of new media in recent anti-Islamic campaigns (remember Facebook and Twitter support of draw Muhammad day). They are hitting only where it hurts most.
Unlike using traditional media (as they did in 2005) now they are using internet to provoke Muslims, which they will keep following until they get a better tool than internet to spread their anti-Islam agenda.
The dual standard and bias western media allows anti-Islamic content under the umbrella of “freedom of speech” and this has been discussed many times.
I have always supported the ban on social media websites in past, as many of you did, when they refused to respect the sentiments of Muslims, but I think this is not a long-term solutions.
The use of these services is now more of a necessity than a choice. You can’t live in a world without using these technologies or you will be left further behind. Simply assume a life without Gmail, Google, Android or iOS – what else you will be left with? Isolation only.
The social networks are reality of new world order and Jewish lobby is influencing and controlling the new media as they always controlled the traditional media. If you don’t know only 6 Jewish companies control 96% of world media.
And they are using this control to shape up our habits, trends, thinking, culture and to provoke us.
Before you decide to criticize me of blaming Jews for all our problems, know some facts about the movers and shakers of new media by clicking this link.
Here let me ask you one question:
With such kind of power and mission, do you still think that Google, Facebook and YouTube will listen to Muslim concerns and will take action against anti-Islam content?

Long Term Solution

The only long-term solution for Muslims is to play a vital role in new media by competing with the today’s technology giants. Muslim entrepreneurs have to work smart to tip the new media scale in favor of Muslims. Why we have not seen a single web 2.0 success story from Muslim world? You may ask. In my opinion, we lack at two fronts.
“Remarkable” Ideas
The most important ingredient for the site that will be the next face of web 2.0 is a unique idea that is remarkable (worth talking about). People move from one service to another every now and then (remember friendster, orkut, myspace, Bebo etc) so new “remarkable” ideas will eventually replace Facebook, Twitter and YouTube. These new social media and network platforms will keep replacing the old ones. The future of content distribution will remain online for many years to come.
Raising Venture Capital
Building a site of epic magnitude will come at a cost. That is the reason why venture capital firms exist. You will need to hire great engineers and designers in industry to launch your idea, meet scaling up challenges and need money to rent office space and other regular expenditures of company.
In short, you need the seed capital from angel investors for your startup. Raising capital is not easy unless you are in Silicon Valley, have connections with VCs beside a great idea to pitch. Things can change if Muslim billionaires consider investing in local startups instead of buying luxury private jets.

The Immediate Response:

Convey the Message of Islam using Available Resources

While sharing Quranic verses and Hadiths on Facebook or YouTube is good, we should concentrate on spreading the message of Islam to non-Muslims. Getting more ‘Likes’ or ‘Shares’ does not do justice to Islam. Here a few ideas on how we can use internet against the evil that is being spread in the name of ‘freedom of speech’.

• Provide resources for people who want to know about Islam (Hint: research what people want to know about Islam using Google trends/Google insights for search etc and build sites around those topics).
• Reply to the questions that people are raising about Islam on forums, YouTube and other social media websites. Do not let people spread evil against Islam and get away with it, reply with logic.
• Share inspirational stories of newly converted Muslims (there are hundreds of them online).
• Share the Islamic stance and views on issues of modern world including terrorism, justice, equality and human rights.

Internet is double-edged sword. If Zionists are using new media to propagate anti-Islam campaigns, we can use their weapons to show the world the real message of Islam and reach to the masses.
At the same time, we have to work smart to play our role in new media. It is not a matter of choice anymore and censorship is not a permanent solution.

Conclusion:

Boycotting them isn’t the solution. Learn, regroup, unify and then compete with them.

Deosai Planes

The Deosai Planes

The Deosai Planes are not part of the Himalaya. They are a high altitude grassy plateau between the Himalaya and Karakoram located south and west of Skardu bordering Indian controlled Kashmir. Nowhere is lower than 4000m. The area is unihabited and only accessible for 4 months of the year between June and September. The region is protected under the 3630 sq km Deosai Plain National Park which is the second largest national park in the country after the Central Karakoram National Park. There is a significant brown bear population within its boundaries which and also support the endangered snow leopard and Indian wolf. Himalayan Ibex, golden marmots and snow trout are numerous. A jeep trail stretches from Skardu to the Astor valley. There is no public transport. A jeep from Gilgit to Skardu takes about 16 to 18 hours stopping overnight in Astor. Many people also walk or cycle the trail. Due to its rolling topography it is not a region noted for its mountaineering potential.

Azad Jammu and Kashmir

The Kashmir Valley

To the south and east of Diamir and the Kaghan Valley is the Azad Jammu & Kashmir (AJK) province that extends along the Pakistani-Indian border encompassing the beautiul Pir Panjal range.

Azad Jammu & Kashmirs highest peak is Sirwali Peak (6326m). It is located at the extreme end of the extremely beautiful Shaunter valley. Beyond this mountain is the Astore and Diamer District of Northern Areas. The greenery ends here and Astore and Diamer are mostly dry districts because Nanga Parbat massif provides the rain shawdow for the Northern Areas and blocks the passage of Monsoonal rain in Northern Areas causing these vapurs to fall in Azad Kashmir resulting in lush green Shaunter valley.If we rightly follow this mounatin ridge it will ultimately take us to Nanga Parbat (8126m). Nanga Parbat is approximately 25 to 30 km air distance from this area. (Info with thanks from MountainLover)

Currrent situation regarding entry to Azad Jammu & Kashmir

For those considering a trip to Azad Jammu & Kashmir the areas of interest to climbers such as the Pir Panjal range are unfortunately off-limits due to the proximity to the line of control. Mountains further south are also off-limits. This is due to the 16km security zone that buffers disputed border.
Anyone planning to visit AJK needs to obtain a No Objection Certificate from the Ministry of Kashmir Affairs & Northern Areas in Islamabad. To obtain this you must provide a letter explaining the areas you wish to visitand the dates of you visit. 2 passportport photos and photocopies of you passport and visa are also required. You may also be asked to provide an additional letter from your embassy or high commission to verify you are who you say you are. The process is likely to be long winded and in the end they may simply say no.

Sirwali Peak (6326m)

Hari Parbat Peak

Nameless Peaks around Sharda

 

All about Himalayas

A Magnificent Monument of Nature
Being the world's highest mountain chain, the Himalayas is characterized by its great height, complex geologic structure, snowcapped peaks, large valley glaciers, deep river gorges, and rich vegetation.
Himalayas is a magnificent monument on the Earth. It represents the awe-inspiring power, beauty, and grandeur of Nature. It constitutes the greatest attraction to adventurers, climbers and trekkers throughout the world.
Geography:
The Himalayas extend from west to east for about 2,500 km in a curve, from the Pamit Knot in the northwest to the valley of the Brahmaputra River in the east. And with a width of 100 - 400 km. The Himalayas range covering an area of 612,021 sq. km. 
It passes through Nepal, Indian (5 States: Jammu and Kashmir, Himachal Pradesh, Uttar Pradesh, Sikkim), China (Tibet), Bhutan and Pakistan. 
.Click to view larger map
The Himalayas are divided into several parallel ranges from south to north:
- Sub Himalayas. (With an average altitude of 900 - 1,200 meters.)
- Lower Himalayas. (With an average altitude of 3,700 meters.)
- Great Himalayas. (A single range rising above 6,000 meters with nine of the 14 highest peaks in the world, including Mt Everest.)
- Tibetan Himalayas. (Tibet Plateau, with an average altitude 4,000 - 4,5900 meters, well known as the Roof of the World.)
The Karakoram Range in the northwest is also sometimes considered as part of the Himalayas system.
History:

The Himalayas are relatively young folded mountains. According the Theory of Continental Drift, there were several phases in the genesis history of the Himalayas:
About 250 million years ago, there was a single super continent (Pangea) on Earth. It was surrounded by a large ocean.
About 200 million years ago, the super continent (Pangea) started to split into different land masses and moved apart. An extensive sea (Tethys) stretched along the latitudinal area presently occupied by the Himalayas.
The two land masses, the Eurasian (Angara) and the Indian sub-continent (Gondwana) moved closer and closer,  then the collision happened and uplifted the highest & youngest mountain ranges on the Earth.
There were several phases in the Himalayas building process:
Phase I - Upper Cretaceous Period. About 70 million years ago, when the Gondwana plate and Angara plate began to converge and collide. The sea-bed was folded and raised into longitudinal ridges and valleys.
Phase II - Upper Eocene Period. About 65 million years ago,  the collision was much more powerful. The Tethys bed was raised high enough to cause the final retreat of the sea and its sedimentary deposits were elevated into mountain ranges and intervening basins into large river valleys. The Great and Tibetan Himalayas were uplifted.
Phase III - Middle Miocene Period. About 25 million years ago, the Lower Himalayas were formed.
Phase IV - About 2 million years ago, the fourth Himalayan paroxysm occurred. Along with further elevation of the Himalayas ranges, compression forces squeezed and pushed southwards, The Sub Himalayas also raised and folded.
Phase V - Only 600,000 years ago, the final phase more or less determined the present geomorphic form of the Himalayan system.
However the India Plate continuously moving north at the rate of about 2 cm per year. The Himalayas are still geologically active and structurally unstable. For this reason, earthquakes are a frequent occurrence in the entire Himalayan region.
The Himalayas region is an important model for the study of geology and continents tectonics.

Ecosystem:

Himalayas have had profound influences on the climate, environment and population distribution etc on the Earth. An example is showing here - a scientific synergy acquired by Terra sensors in March 2000:

True color image draped over surface topography of the Earth	Himalayas (white) divided the Tibet (World's Roof) and the India sub-continent. The growth of dense vegetation (darker greens) in the true color image.	High concentration of water vapor, or humidity, appeared just south of the Himalayas.
The lush landscape attracts about a billion people reside there. indicated by the reds and yellows in this false-color image.	industries produce a thick layer of haze, or aerosol particles (brown),	High levels of carbon monoxide (reds and yellows,)  But these pollutants were not allowed to spread northward to the Tibetan Plateau.

The Himalayas range is the originate of numerous glaciers and many important rivers in Asia.
 
There is great variation in the Himalayan soils. The dark brown soils are well suited for growing fruit trees. The wet, deep, upland soils with high humus content are good for growing tea. Himalayan vegetation is based on altitude and rainfall and can be classified into four groups:

Tropical zone - Up to 1,000 - 1,200 m (3,280 to 3,940 ft) . Tropical ever green forests, Rose, chestnut, bamboo, alder, pine, laurel, and palm etc.
Subtropical zone - Up to 2,200 m (7,220 ft). Deciduous forest with sal, oak, and magnolia temperate forests of cedar, birch, hazel, maple, and spruce
Alpine zone - 2,200 to 2,700 m ( 7,220 to 8,860 ft ). With juniper, rhododendron, mosses, lichens etc
Several kinds of flowering plants are found from 2,700 to 3,600 m (8,860 - 11,800 ft). Alpine meadows are found up to  5,000 m (16,400 feet).

Elephants, bison, and rhinoceroses inhabit the forested lower slopes of the Outer Himalayas.
The snow leopard, brown bear, red panda, and
The black bear, languor monkey, clouded leopard, and goat antelope live in the foothills. Tibetan yak are living above the tree line--above 3,050 m (10,000 ft).
Endangered animal species, such as the rhinoceros, musk deer, and Kashmir stag, or hangul are now under protection.
There are catfish in most Himalayan streams, and butterflies are extremely varied and beautiful.
While one are enjoying the miracle of the Nature, one must not forget how to protect the vulnerable ecosystem of the Himalayas.

Major Peaks of the Himalayas:

Mt. Everest
The Himalayas is the world's highest mountain range comprising all top ten of the world's highest peaks. In fact, the Himalayas includes 14 peaks more than 8,000 meters high and some 200 more than 6000 meters.
Listed here are the panoramic sequence from East to West of over 7,000 meters major peaks in Himalayas :
NAMCHA BARWA  HIMAL
China (Tibet)
Namcha Barwa- 7,782m (25,531ft)
Jailabaili Feng - 7,151 (23,460ft)

THAR DESERT PACKAGES 2011~2012

Thar Desert one of unique Deserts of the world in addition the Kaaroonjher Mountain, Runn of Kutchh, ancient historical temples of Jeen era, centuries old worship and prayer places of Hindus and Muslims streams, fountains, dunes and forts.
Thar Desert spreads over 22000 square kilometer, is mostly desert except for a small portion of hills situated in Taluka Nagarparkar and small part of barrage terrains where livelihood of above one million people depends on rain fed agriculture and livestock rearing. While the local crops and wild foods of this desert are totally organic as the area is yet free from corporate farming.

Thari organic foods can also be arrange for our guests according to the requirements of  season. In this regards the menu includes of pure honey, butter, Desi Ghee, loaves of millet with vegetables of mushroom, Chibher, water and musk-melon, (gidro and chhanhio) amaranths (mariro), Raita etc
Thar Desert is also widely known for folk music and melody, its soil has given birth to renowned singers including Murad faqir, Mai Bhagi, Mohan Bhagat, Saroop Bhagat, Budho faqir, Hussain Faqir, Saluram Bhagat and others, their voices yet add to the beauty of this Desert.
Where to stay:
At Guest House situated in Mithi City, The location is clean, attractive and away from noisy atmosphere. The Guest House provides the facilities of quality lodging and boarding.
Guest House is also fully equipped with all basic facilities including Telephone, Standby Generator, Air Conditioned Rooms, TV, Computer, Internet, Transport facilities, Dry Cleaning and humble Guides for visit of Thar.
Note: Booking minimum 15-days before departure date.

Terms & conditions Apply *

DISCOVER AMAZING PAKISTAN

Word Pakistan means “The land of pure” where snowcapped peaks of Himalaya’s,  Karakoram's, Hindukash and Pamir ranges meet. A land where history and ancient civilization mystifies one’s heart, a land where spiritualism unveils its mystery at the shrines of Sufi Saints.

Amazing Pakistan

The Invincible 167 Million : 6th largest Nation of the World.
World's 9th Largest English Speaking Country

World 7th largest Pool of Scientists and Engineers

The Might : 7th Nuclear Power of the World (on May 28, 1998, became the 7th nuclear power of the world).

7th largest Standing Arm Force in the World

Air force :Air Commodore M.M. ALAM has a world record of shooting down 5 Indian planes in less than a Minute
The Roof Top of the World
The land of grand mountain ranges, a land that holds five (5) out of ten (10) most highest peaks in the world.

K2 the second highest mountain in the world.
Valleys of Kaghan, Swat, Kashmir, Gilgit, Hunza, Skardu, Chitral, Kalash, Phandar, Astore & Rama is said to be a places ” Where Time Stops and Fairy Treads“ and are the natural wonders of the world where poetic verses find their inspirations from the beauty and elegance of high peak mountains, lush green fields and the fragrant breeze singing across the poplar trees.

Some of the places which are not highlighted by the media but still due to their magnitude find their places on the World record books are
Aisa’s Highest Railway Station Kan Mehtarzai is located 2240 meters above sea level near Quetta.   Lalazar often termed as most beautiful place on earth
Nanga Parbat 9th Highest Peak in the World
What it would feel like to play a sport that is wild, challenging and manly at the top of the world surrounded by the drumbeats and the music of the reed instrument. Yes Shandur Polo tournament is played every year at World’s highest Polo ground at Shandur Pass, Northern Pakistan.
Karakoram Highway runs through the northern areas connecting Pakistan with China’s Xingjiang province is often described as ” Eighth Wonder of the World” due to the marvel of civil engineering as it has taken 15 years to complete by the Pakistan Army Engineers in collaboration with China. It’s been labeled as ” World’s highest paved international Road” under world’s toughest terrain.
Gawader: World's Largest Deep Sea Port
World’s Largest Deep Sea Port: Gwader “Gwa” means Air and “Dar” means door, and the word Gawadar means ” The door of the wind” is the world’s largest deep sea port lies in southwestern Pakistani province of Balochistan. The design and construction of the port is carried out in collaboration with China and it has just started it’s operation.It’ s going to emerge as a world’s biggest skyline due to it’s capacity and infrastructure of handling bulk carriers. It has been declared as a Duty Free Port and Free Economic Zone by the Pakistani government that has increased the commercial worth manifolds. It has an immense geostrategic importance as it is the entrance to the Persian Gulf and is considered to be a substitute of Dubai Port
Khewra Salt Mines: Second Largest Salt Mine in the World
Khewra Salt Mine located in Khewra, Jehlum Punjab, Pakistan is the second largest Salt Mine in the world and is considered to be the oldest in the subcontinent. It was said that discovery of Salt mines were not done by Alexander or his army but by their horses as they started licking the stones when they stopped here for rest. Thousand of visitors each year visit Khewra Salt mines and get fascinated by the nature’s miracle in the heart of mountains.
Haleji Lake: Asia’s largest Bird Sanctuary
Pakistan is a land of serene beauty , a country with diverse wild life , fresh water lakes, a 1046 km coast lines. Some of the most unique species of birds are found in northern Pakistan with awe-inspiring natural wonders like Lake Saiful Maluk, Lake Shandur, Dudipatsar Lake, Kutwal lake, Zalzal lake and many more. But Haleji has it’s own significance as it is Asia’s largest waterfowl reserve. During winter thousands of birds of different species fly down to Haleji from Siberian colder areas Pakistan: The heavenly Shandur Lake
Thar Desert: One amongst the largest deserts in the World
Thar is a arid region in the north western part of Indian subcontinent, it lies mostly in Indian state of Rajasthan but it covers eastern Sindh province and the southeastern portion of Pakistan’s Punjab province. It is amongst one of the largest deserts in the world rich multifaceted culture, heritage, traditions, folk tales, dances and music. The poetic expression of Kafi written by Sufi poets of Sindh resonates in the cold nights as the Thari musicians start singing them on sorrowing rhythmic beats. In the night the granules of the sand lit up like stars as the moonlight walks on them.
The land of 5000 years oldest Civilization : Indus Valley and Mohenjo-DaroMoenjodaro is the province of Sindh, Pakistan and archeology trace back it exitence 5000 years ago. It provides an earliest instance of exemplary form of town planning and community organization and  found to be as one of the oldest cities known today. It is said to be the pilgrimage of ancient ruins. The splendor of Indus Valley civilization spread over a thousand mile from the high peak snowy mountains of Kashmir to the glittering sand dunes facing the Arabian Sea. One of the oldest known civilizations that flourished in the Indus river Basin embraced within its fold almost the entire country now known as Pakistan.
Tarbela Dam: The largest earth-filled dam in the world, 469 feet high and 2,264 feet thick at the base.

RaniKot

The Great Wall (Rani Kot) of Sindh, Pakistan also recognized as Deware Sindh is the world’s largest fort with a perimeter of about 26 km or 16 miles. It is located in the Kirthar Range about 30 km southwest of Sann, in Jamshoro District. It is approximately 90 km north of Hyderabad. It has an approximate diameter of 6 km. Its walls are on the average 6 meters high and are made of gypsum and lime cut sandstone and total circumference is about 20 km. It was initially constructed for bow and arrow warfare but later on expanded to withstand firearms.
Ranikot is the most supernatural wonder of Sindh. Viewable from five kilometers away its massive rolling walls twist and dip over the hills. Its walls, built with clad sandstone and toughened with 45 bastions along the outer wall, of which 7 are rectangular and the remaining are round. All modified throughout the ages to accommodate the use of gunpowder, this perhaps makes it the largest fort in the world.

Neelum Valley-Kashmir

Neelum Valley-Kashmir

Neelum is a beautiful valley containing about 370 small and large villages and near about two hundred thousand population. It starts from Chelhana and goes till Taobut 250 km long. It is named Neelum due to its river, curving like the snake with transparent sky colored water. Like any other population of the subcontinent it has the most heterogeneous population with variety of rituals, customs and traditions. The whole valley is full of beautiful and fascinating sceneries.

Neelum Valley is dipped in beauty Neelum valley about 252 km long and 3620 sq km curvature shaped with majestic pine, fir and deodar trees, lies north-south of Muzaffarabad. This ninety-mile long kingdom of vegetation is ripped apart by the indigo blue Neelum River which flows serpentine down hills to merge itself into the river Jhelum at Domail. Domail, the confluence of two mighty rivers, presents highly fascinating scene of youthful embrace. This heart-warning spectacle is most soothing to the eye. Neelum Valley is situated to the North & North East of Muzaffarabad and running parallel to the Kaghan Valley.

It is separated from it by snow covered peaks, some over 4000 meters above sea level. Excellent scenic beauty, panoramic view, towering hills on both sides of the noisy Neelum River, lush green forests, enchanting streams, high altitude lakes and attractive surroundings make the valley a dream come true. The swaying lush green forests, snow capped mountains, streams singing songs of joy, and fast flowing river Neelum, all go together to make it naturalist’s wonderland. The area is also ideal for mountain tourism. A part of Nanga Parbat gigantic falls in this area which is dominated by “Sarwaali Peak” (6326 meters) the highest mountain in Azad Kashmir. Moreover like Kaghan Valley it is famous for fishing and angling activities in Neelum river and Jagran Nullah which are stocked with trout fish. Its sole tourist attraction is a seventeen (17) century fort built by the town’s founder, a chief of the Chak tribe named Muzaffar Khan, to ward off the Mughal armies of Emperor Akbar. Neelum valley is an attractive place for tourists due to its famous lush greenery, springs, streams, lakes and hilly and sloppy mountains.

There are two approaches to the valley. One from the Kaghan Valley which is linked with it at two points, the Noori Top (Pass) and the Ratti Gali and many minor Passes. From Dawarrian it takes two days for hiking or riding and night stay at Dharian at 12,000 feet. The second approach is from Muzaffarabad. It is a distance of 55 miles which is jeep able in fair weather. The Neelum meets the Jhelum River at Domali (meeting of the two) on the outskirts of Muzaffarabad city. From Paticka forest one reaches Nosari, 24 miles ahead of Muzaffarabad. Next come Chelhana (height 3,200 feet), Qazi Nag, Barian, Salkhala, Jura, Kundalshahi, Authmuqam on this road.

Some of its famous places like Shounter Pass, Chita Khata, Ratti Gali, Baboon, Noori Top, Sharda, Kel, Surgon and many more are mentioned by famous tourists like Mustansar Hussain Tararr, Ibn-e-Batota etc. Tararr even wrote a travelogue, Ratti Gali after visiting this place.

Traveling during May to October from the scorching heat of plains to the high land basin of Neelum Valley is indeed an escape from hell inferno to the cold breezes of paradise. The temperature remains in between 65°F to 90° F during the summer. The upper portion of the area normally receives first snow fall in the month of October and at some times even during September.

The valley, starting from Muzaffarabad, the capital of Azad Kashmir, is about 150 miles long. The first district of Neelum is Chelhana about 43 km from Muzaffarabad just after crossing the Nosari Bridge by the route of Neelum road. It lies on both sides of the river Neelum. The geographical features enhance the natural beauty of the Valley. Its elevation, a mere 2,000 feet at the start, gradually rises till it attains a respectable height of 8,000 feet. On both sides there are high mountains and peaks. Nearly all the forest wealth of Azad Kashmir is to be found in this part of the State.

Popular Attractions

The starting point of district Neelum about 43 km from Muzaffarabad just after crossing the Nosari Bridge by the route of Neelum road. It is famous for its marble mines, from where marble is transported to Muzaffarabad and cities of Pakistan.  Here is also a crossing point where people on both sides of LOC meet there relatives by crossing the bridge twice in a month. This meeting is possible after a long documentary process which is started with the consensus of both sides’ governments after the earth quack of 2005. On the opposite side of Chelhana is Tetwal under Indian occupation. Kerna the famous historical place is near Tetwal which is also told the capital city of ancient Kashmir by folks and even historians.

From here to Kundalshahi there are many small and large villages on the both sides of Neelum River, about 18 km forward is a link road Leswa bypass that leads to the top Chugali and many more beautiful mountains. Important stations in the way from Chelhana to Kundalshahi are Barian, Bandi, Leswa, Mirpura, Jura, Slampura and Chembher.

Jura Camp

About 60 kilometer from Muzaffarabad a small village consisting 3000 population, first main market after entering District Neelum, Jura is a village with scattered population on both side of river. It is the beginning point for Leswa bypass road and for mountain villages like Kutha Chugali and Chunj Top.  For scenic point of view Nakka, Baandi and Leswa are place worth to visit.

Kundalshahi

Kundalshahi is 74 km from Muzaffarabad and about 5 kilometers from Authmuqam, another midway station, and a small commercial centre. In Authmuqam and Kundalshahi almost all basic necessities are available in the local market. Being a commercial centre it is congested and over crowded. Jagran stream joins the Neelum river here which has a glass light clean water and a suitable habitation for trout fish. A small hydro electric power is installed on this stream in Kundalshahi which provide electricity to Kundalshahi and Authmuqam. From Kundalshahi a link road leads to Kutton, Jagran and other tops. At the end of Jagran hilly tops reflect amazing scenes and are worth to see. Kiyan Shareef is an adjacent village that has reputation as land of holy saints. And annually Urs ceremonies are celebrated which attracted a large number of devotees from Kashmir and from Pakistan. A Sherries is there for devotees.

Kutton and Jagran

The picturesque Kutton and Jagran are best to visit during April to October. Nestled in the lower part of Neelum valley, the picturesque “Jagran” is its inseparable part. Jagran Nullah (stream) is indispensable and plays pivotal role in the formation of its landscape beauty and charm which reveals the richness of the area. The area is 16 kilometers from Kundalshahi and is accessible by road. For the convenience of tourists, AJK tourism Department has constructed a rest house here. A mega hydro electric project is installed here that produce electricity to the state.  A long a beautiful series of Himalayas mountain starts from here to Kaghan, Skardu and Chillas.

In Jagran places like Kutton, Thunian, Ghansee and Pattlian Sar are worth-seeing and inviting everyone to visit and enjoy. Jagran is ideal for mountaineers and takers too. Here the mountains are ranging from 4000 feet to 1400 feet above sea level. The ever green forests are stretched in the far flung lush green plateaus with abundance of wildlife.

On the side lane of the impressive tourists resort the ever flowing greenish and surf gushing waters of Jagran Nullah add to its peculiar character. Jagran Nullah, rushing downwards all along the tall grooves of trees is almost small river. Surrounded by scintillating beauty under the shades of the majestic snow-clad mountains the river is freezing cold. The snowmelt of these sky heights named “Jagran Nullah” is also know for rout fishing attracting angles all over the seasons.

Salkhala

Not more than 3 kilometers from Kundalshahi across the river Neelum one can enjoy the lovely place Salkhala. A Trout hatchery has been established by the Azad Kashmir Fisheries Department. A reasonable accommodation facility is available here.

Kutha Peran and Meengal

About 8 km forward from Kundalshahi just before entering Authmuqam a jeep able road lead to this series of small villages.  Meengal and Kalkore about 1580 meter from sea level are the last villages of this series. A stream which is main source of water for cultivation for Authmuqam and for this village is flowing mid of the whole these village and falls in river Neelum at the place of Shahkot. Area is distinguishable for its rich scenic beauty, frequent waterfalls, typical life style, special cultivations and production of pottery.

Authmuqam

Authmuqam is situation at 10 kilometers from Kundalshahi is the Sub Divisional Headquarter of the area. It contains all the civic services to a certain extent like hospital, post office, bank, a telephone exchange and a few small bazaars. If you need anything then you must buy it from here because this is the last stop where you can find reasonable commodities in quantity as well as in quality. Apart from the fact that this valley town is very unique in its beauty with respect to the other places we had yet visited, it is also significant as it marks the beginning of control line with Indian Held Kashmir in Neelum. It is another important station and well populated city in the valley. Having an altitude of about 1371 meters above sea level is located at a distance of 80 Kms from Muzaffarabad is connected by Neelum road. It is named Authmuqam because it is 8th station from Muzaffarabad to upper valley. Most people are government employees, rest are in different fields. A large number of government and private institution is working here including one high standard private and two government colleges. From here upwards emerges typical Kashmiri living pattern with houses built of wooden logs, most of them double storied. Authmuqam in its geographical structure is a cup like valley with green hills on the four sides. Hiking tracks for surrounding mountains are traced by peoples and tourists.

Neelum (Karen)

At a distance of about 9 Kms from Authmuqam, Neelum opposite to the Karen village (Indian occupied Kashmir) having an altitude of 1524 meters above sea level is very popular among tourists. A tourist rest souse run by AJK tourism department is situated on the bank of River.  Due to its importance from tourism point of view, AJK tourism department is giving special attention to it. From Karen a link road leads to Neelum which is one of the most beautiful villages of Neelum Valley. A zoo and park is under construction, Neelum is also accessible via Karen By-pass starts from Authmuqam.

Nagdar

It is situated, about 25km from Authmuqam the district headquarter at attitude of about 1645 meters. Nagdar is famous for its scattered population on hilly grooves. It is famous for fine quality bean crop which is cultivated at a large land and supplies to the whole valley and out of the valley. Like Kutha Peran this whole series of village is situated on the both side of Nullah Nagdar and a lot of water mills are constructed on it for grinding Maize which is its major crop. Another thing is that most of people are attached with teaching profession.

Dawarrian

Dawarrian at a distance of 13 Km from Neelum at an altitude of 1615 meters is surrounded by mountains full of conifer trees. Over here a mule-track up to Ratti Gali Pass (4140 meters), about 30 Kms toward west congest the Neelum and Kaghan Valleys. The pride of valley is the large fresh water lake nestled in the mountains. Vast plain is surrounded by the small yet beautiful lake and gushing water.

Dodnial

This place is situated about 32 kilometers forward from Authmuqam at an altitude of about 1560 meters. It is also a beautiful place of the both side of Neelum river. Potatoes are the major production of this area. Most people are dependent on their own cultivated sources and a large number is also associated with government and private jobs.

Sharda

The most picturesque place in Neelum Valley is Sharda it is located at a distance of 136 kilometers from Muzaffarabad and 30 Km from Dawarrian. Sharda is one of the most beautiful places with its lush green planes, smooth flowing river which frozes in sever cold season and serves as passage for people of both sides of the river. This place from the point of view of tourists is so attractive and captivating that they get their money’s worth when they spend a few days here in their sojourn amidst nature. In Sharda one also finds ruins of an old place of learning. The presence of these ruins lends Sharda is a historical background providing special attraction for the people interested in archaeology and history. The most important site of Sharda is its haunted university remains which are said remains of a great university of the Asia in Buddhist era. This university was the center of knowledge for the people of China, East and Central Asia. It remained the attractive place for knowledge seeker for a long time that came by the route of Jammu instead of Muzaffarabad. But due to some unknown major accident this university lost its light and existence and vanished completely from the land and even from the history, alongside the university the remains of a fort.

Kel

This place is situated 90 km from Authmuqam and 19 kilometers journey from Sharda, which is at the height of 2097 meters above sea level. This is another picturesque place in the Neelum Valley. The Shounter Nullah joins river Neelum at this place and leads to Gilgit Agency over the Shounter (4420 meter above sea level). Buses run daily on this route in good weather. Kel is also a base camp of mountaineering activities up to Sarawaali Peak 6326 meters above sea level and “Sarawaali Glacier” which are said to be the highest peak and biggest glacier of Azad Kashmir. Rest Houses facilities are available. Form Kel a long track goes towards Nanga Parbat over the 4420 meters Shounter Gali.

Halmet

This village is situated 38 kilometers from Kel. From Kel to forward jeep able road is available for Halmet, the valley above the Kel is also called Grace valley with its harsh and frozen weather in winter season, people have a typical life style. A tourist rest house had been constructed a Halmet to provide accommodation facilities to the visitors. Halmet has fascinating beautiful scenes yet unexplored. Janwai, Phulawai, Sardari and Halmet are the most beautiful places around here.

Taobut

The last station of Neelum Valley is Taobut and end point of Pak beauty in Kashmir. It has a sever season and heavy snow in winter, and winter season continue  about 6 months starting from October to April end. Often there are no signs of path due to land sliding and flooded water streams. In summer it is a worth place for tourist to visit.

Trekking in Neelum Valley

Neelum Valley provides a variety of treks at varying altitudes durations, ranging from a day to a week via from Dawarrian or Sharda to Ratti Gali with duration of 3 days, reaching a maximum altitude of 4140 meters and the trek can be extended to the Kaghan Valley by crossing the Ratti Gali Pass. Near the pass one can see an ideal natural lake “Ratti Gali” at an altitude of 3832 meters and other five little lakes around them. A challenging trek of a week’s duration is from Kel to Astor via Shounter Gali, reaching a maximum altitude of 4260 meters.

The area is well connected by road; more than half of it from Muzaffarabad is black topped, while remaining is all weather (un-metalled), which is being metalled. A regular bus service up to Kel is available. However you can drive in your own car up to Dawarrian from there onwards you have to switch over to Jeeps for your drive.

Total Area: 3621 Sq. Km.   -   Total Population: 197000   -  Administrative Setup (2 Tehsils)   -   Authmuqam &   Sharda

Road Links

Via Rawalpindi Muzaffarabad

Rawalpindi-Muzaffarabad (137), Muzaffarabad-Authmuqam (85Kms), Muzaffarabad-Karen (93 Kms), Muzaffarabad-Sharda (136 Kms), Muzaffarabad-Kel (159 Kms), Kel-Taobut (250Kms)

Via Kaghan- Julkhad

Muzaffarabad -Kaghan (104 Kms), Naraan (128 Kms), Julkhad (173 Kms), Noori Nar Top (192 Kms), Sharda (228 Kms), Kel (251 Kms), Kel-Taobut (340Kms)

Tourism in Neelum Valley

Mountain based adventure Tourism

Common routes for hiking/ mountaineering are

Jagran Route: Kundalshahi – Jagran – Shakharan – Baboon – Ratti Gali.
Karen Route: Karen – Neelum – Nagdar – Karka – Khoree.
Dawarrian Route: Lawat – Dawarrian – Upper Dawarrian – Ratti Gali.
Goother Route: Authmuqam – Rawota  -  Goother – Shaheen.
Kaghan Route: Sharda – Ghumote- Kaghan – Chillas.
Astore Route:  Sharda – Surgon – Shounter.
Tao Butt Kamri Pass- Astore Route.
Arng Kel, Sharda and Narda Village.

Scenic Beauty (based on ECO Tourism)

Mirpura, Kutton, Jagran Valley, Authmuqam, Lower & Upper Neelum Area, Dawarrian, Baboon, Ratti Gali, Noori Nar, Surgun, Sharda, Kel, Arng Kel, Halmet, Taobut, Domail Bela and Shounter Valley Area

Cultural Heritage of Neelum Valley

Halmet – Tao Butt Area for unique architectural style of buildings
Shounter Valley for its unique dresses/ costumes
Neelum Valley for its unique culture/ traditions

Historical / Archaeological Assets

Ruins of Old Buddha University in Sharda
Sharda Fort
Kishan Ghaati near Sharda

Districts Neelum

Some of the tourist places of Neelum Valley are situated in the range of Line of Control, therefore sometimes it become difficult to visit these areas. So before visiting the valley, the visitors are required to get information.

SHANDUR POLO FESTIVAL

SHANDUR POLO FESTIVAL

The Highest Polo Field of the World

Polo is known as the King of the games. Gilgit is the home of this spirited game where the British rediscovered and promoted it. Today polo is played in Gilgit and Chitral enthusiastically in its original trilling form. For the last few years, a polo tournament is organized between the traditional rival polo teams of Gilgit Region and Chitral at the high plateau of Shandur Pass (3734 m) every year in summer. This week long festival coupled with folk music and dance at the height of 3700 meters in the back drop of Hindukush mountains, is an event not to be missed.

Itinerary: 

Day-1 Arrival at Rawalpindi. 

Day-2 Fly to Gilgit. 

Day-3 Sightseeing of Gilgit. 

Day-4 Jeep to Phander Lake. 

Day-5 Jeep to Shandur Pass. 

Day-6-9 Participate in the thrilling Polo games, dancing and singing festival.

Day-10-11 Back to Gilgit or drive onward to Chitral. 

Day-12 Transfer to Rawalpindi. 

Day-13 Embark home bond flight

Slowly, slowly to the Kili top

Slowly, slowly to the Kili top
A hiker trades in money for happiness at Africa’s highest mountain Kilimanjaro
By Usman Hayat

It’s 5,895 meters high, it’s majestic, it’s Africa’s highest mountain — it’s Kilimanjaro. I felt a mix of joy and exhaustion on the Uhuru peak, the highest point on Kilimanjaro on September 26, 2011 — we were on the top, breathless after the long hike but mesmerised by the views all around us; clear blue sky, glaciers and barren valleys… The wonderful experience of hiking Kilimanjaro overpowered us.

Ours was a small but diverse group of five tourists: an American from New York, an English couple from Birmingham, a Brazilian studying in the UK, and me, a Pakistani living in London. To hike up to the 5,895 meters (19,341 feet), we had to brave the high altitude, suffer freezing nights, and endure scorching days. Of the different routes to the summit, we followed a variant of the Rongai route.

The hike had its contrasts — one day we were filled with dust and next day soaked in rain water.

Kili challenges most people, particularly the urbanites who think the hike is too easy or those, who, like me, have a ‘less-than-great’ sleeping bag in the freezing nights at 4000 meters high.

Yet, Kili is kind. Unlike most other peaks of similar height, Kili allows hikers to reach its summit without any technical climbing or life-threatening risks.

So, what’s the secret to successfully hike Kili? Apparently, “pollaepollae” to put it in Swahili, meaning “slowly slowly”, our porters told us.

Kili was not going anywhere and we were in no rush either. By hiking at a slow pace, we stayed calm, did not exhaust ourselves — and acclimatised better.

After spending four days hiking up to a place called the School Hut, we started the ascent to summit past midnight. It was so cold that the water froze inside my hydration pouch and blood seemed to freeze in my limbs. The altitude, the darkness, the steep slopes, and the long hike all got together to make our life difficult. Soon we were dragging our feet in a dazed state. Every step made us breathless. Every metre was a struggle. Our guide calmly told us there was nothing to worry because, “This is normal on Kili”.

I noticed that most of the hikers looked like zombies though some looked zombier than the others! Those who looked the zombiest had to give up and in a few cases were rushed down on stretchers.

If being a professional means being good at what you do, the Kili porters were indeed professionals. They were polite — and surprisingly some were females too. Some of them spoke English. I saw one walking up the mountain carrying a stretcher that, he said, weighed 50 kg. Now that’s a lot of kilos for one man to carry at above 3000 meters.

Well-trained and experienced, the Kili porters knew all the right things to do at the right time. When we were exhausted, they cheered us up with a song; when the water froze in our hydration pouches, they pulled water bottles from their packs; when we were thinking of having a picture, they readily took one for us; and when we seemed set to reach the summit, they pulled out Pringles and Red Bull to celebrate. What more can you ask for?

I turned vegetarian during the hike. It was good for faith and stomach. But I was the only vegetarian in the group and it made cooking a bit difficult for our cook. One of our porters who suspected I craved for halal meat introduced me to the cook — who had a distinct Muslim name. He told me, with a generous use of ‘inshallah’ and ‘mashallah’, that he buys meat from Muslim butchers in Arusha town, therefore, it is ‘halal’ by default.

Satisfied, henceforth, I ate everything that was on offer. Most of the meals were tasty but there were some unusual dishes as well, such as banana and beef stew, not a combination I had come across ever before.

It is a long and tiring five hours hike from Kibo Hut (4703 meters) to Stella Point (5745 meters) before you make the final ascent to the summit. But on the way back, you can come down in just about half an hour. This is how it works.

Kili is covered with scree from Stella Point to Kibo Hut. As soon as we walked down the steepest part, a porter grabbed each of us by one arm and started running downhill as if we were skiing. The slope was littered with rocks and a fall was bound to hurt. In the beginning we were fearful of what was happening but the porters knew what they were doing and soon our fear gave way to fun. Despite being tired, we went with the flow and were glad to get back to our camp well in time.

Most other hikes, including some of those that are longer, such as the one to the Everest base camp, tend to cost less than the Kili hike. This is surprising because Tanzania is even poorer than Pakistan, labour and food is cheap and the mountain is free. Our guide explained to me that a significant chunk goes to a foreign company that sells the package to westerners and the national park which levies a seemingly exorbitant fee. For the porters, despite the hard work, the money they make on Kili remains much better than what other professions offer. I asked our guide if Tanzanians could earn more by dropping the prices. He laughed it off, and told me the national park jacked up its prices because it gets more hikers than there is space in the camps. He added that even with the record high prices, hikers just keep on coming.

So, it’s ‘pollaepollae’ for the Kili tourist and ‘hakunamatata’ for the Kili tourism!

As we were finishing the hike and getting back into the bus to Arusha, the lasting feeling I had was that a hiker trades in money for happiness at Kili — and that’s not such a bad bargain.